SNAPSHOT of U.S. Industrial Sewing Today

 

Meet one of our favorite homegrown denim makers

Billiam Jeans, established by Bill Mitchell in Greenville, South Carolina, is a premium denim brand with a unique focus on customization. It all started when Mitchell began altering clothes during his early 20s, leading him to experiment with making jeans from scratch. Over the years, he has refined his craft, creating high-quality, handcrafted jeans sourced primarily from Cone Mills, a well-regarded American denim manufacturer. The brand offers a blend of traditional craftsmanship with modern, sustainable materials, including denim made from recycled products.

Of course, Bill is a long time Cutsew customer. He put together a video to showcase our relationship. It’s cool to be a part of the maker community and to play a small role in what Bill is doing. Billiam Jeans is also known for its commitment to social causes, donating 20% of its profits to organizations fighting human trafficking.

How much industrial sewing happens in the United States?

Industrial sewing in the United States has seen a decline over the years due to outsourcing and global competition, but it still plays a significant role in certain sectors. While much of the mass garment production has moved overseas to countries like China, Vietnam, and Bangladesh, there are several key areas where industrial sewing remains relevant in the U.S.:

  1. Military and Government Contracts: The U.S. government mandates that certain products, like military uniforms and equipment, be manufactured domestically            under the Berry Amendment. This has preserved a significant portion of industrial sewing for defense-related purposes.
  2. Specialized and High-End Manufacturing: The U.S. is still home to several companies that focus on high-end or specialized textile products, including:
    • Aerospace and automotive textiles
    • Medical textiles
    • Safety gear (like protective equipment)
    • Luxury apparel and boutique brands
  3. Domestic Apparel Brands: While the bulk of clothing is imported, some smaller, niche apparel companies still manufacture domestically, often with a focus on quality and sustainable practices. Companies like American Giant or Filson have made a point of keeping production within the U.S.
  4. U.S. Textile Hubs: States such as North Carolina, South Carolina, and parts of the Midwest still have industrial sewing operations, though the scale has reduced compared to past decades.

Overall, while the volume of industrial sewing in the U.S. is much smaller compared to major textile-producing nations, the sector persists in niche markets and through government-related production mandates.

 

What businesses within the U.S. textile hubs still have industrial sewing operations?

Several businesses within U.S. textile hubs, particularly in states like North Carolina, South Carolina, and other regions, still maintain industrial sewing operations. These companies often focus on specialized products, government contracts, and niche markets. Here are some notable businesses and sectors that continue to engage in industrial sewing operations:

1. Military and Government Contract Manufacturers

  • Propper International (Missouri): A major supplier of military uniforms and gear, they manufacture much of their product in U.S. factories under government contracts.
  • American Apparel, Inc. (Alabama): Specializes in military uniforms and clothing, operating under the Berry Amendment, which requires certain goods to be made in the U.S.
  • Massif (Oregon): Manufactures flame-resistant clothing for military and first responders, producing their garments domestically.

2. Protective Gear and Safety Equipment

  • National Safety Apparel (Ohio): A leader in industrial safety and protective apparel, this company produces a range of flame-resistant and high-visibility clothing in U.S.-based factories.
  • Lakeland Industries (New York and Alabama): Specializes in protective clothing for industrial and firefighting use, with domestic sewing operations for some of their product lines.

3. Automotive and Aerospace Textile Manufacturers

  • Lear Corporation (Michigan): A major supplier of automotive seating and interior components, including textiles, with some domestic operations in cutting, sewing, and assembly.
  • Boeing (Washington): While Boeing is primarily known for aerospace manufacturing, the company also relies on textile components for seats, upholstery, and technical fabrics, some of which are produced through domestic industrial sewing operations.

4. Luxury and High-End Apparel

  • American Giant (California/North Carolina): Known for producing high-quality hoodies and casual wear domestically, American Giant has its manufacturing facilities in North Carolina and other U.S. locations.
  • Filson (Washington): This heritage brand focuses on rugged outdoor clothing and accessories, much of which is still sewn in the U.S. at its factories in Washington state.

5. Medical and Technical Textiles

  • Milliken & Company (South Carolina): A leader in performance and protective textiles, Milliken has diversified its textile operations to include medical fabrics, flame-resistant materials, and industrial products. Much of their technical sewing is done domestically.
  • Glen Raven, Inc. (North Carolina): Known for its outdoor performance fabrics, including the well-known Sunbrella brand, Glen Raven maintains U.S. production facilities for weaving, dyeing, and industrial sewing.

6. Smaller and Niche Domestic Apparel Brands

  • Hardwick Clothes (Tennessee): One of the last remaining suit manufacturers in the U.S., Hardwick produces men's and women's suits, sports coats, and other clothing in their Tennessee facility.
  • Tommie Copper (New York): A brand specializing in compression garments and sports recovery wear, with some domestic sewing operations.

7. Textile Contractors and Industrial Sewing Services

  • Contempora Fabrics (North Carolina): A textile manufacturer specializing in knitting, dyeing, and finishing fabrics, particularly for military applications, with industrial sewing capabilities.
  • Merrow Manufacturing (Massachusetts): Specializes in advanced sewing solutions for technical textiles, including products for military, medical, and industrial applications.

These companies represent a small portion of the U.S. industrial sewing industry, with operations typically focused on high-quality, specialized products rather than large-scale, low-cost manufacturing. They play critical roles in sectors such as defense, safety, and technical textiles, where domestic production is often required or advantageous.

 

How much of the makers' market uses industrial sewing to create products?

The maker’s market, which consists of small-scale artisans, independent designers, and craftspeople, often relies on industrial sewing to produce a variety of products. However, the extent of industrial sewing usage within this market varies depending on the product category, production volume, and the scale of the businesses involved. Here’s a breakdown of how much of the maker’s market uses industrial sewing:

1. Apparel and Fashion

  • Small Clothing Brands: A significant portion of small clothing brands and independent fashion designers use industrial sewing machines, particularly when production volumes grow beyond a few items at a time. These machines are faster, more durable, and produce higher-quality stitching compared to domestic sewing machines.
    • Example products: Dresses, jackets, denim, and casual wear.
  • Sustainability and Made-in-USA Brands: Many makers focused on sustainable, eco-friendly, or U.S.-made products use industrial sewing to create durable, high-quality clothing that stands out from mass-produced goods.

2. Home Goods

  • Textile Home Products: Items like handmade pillows, curtains, bedding, and other soft home furnishings often rely on industrial sewing due to the need for precision and durability, especially when working with heavy fabrics like canvas, denim, or upholstery material.
    • Example products: Pillows, cushion covers, curtains, and quilts.

3. Bags and Accessories

  • Artisan Bag Makers: The production of bags, wallets, and leather goods within the maker’s market frequently utilizes industrial sewing machines. This is especially true when working with materials like leather, heavy canvas, or waxed cotton, which require stronger stitching that industrial machines provide.
    • Example products: Backpacks, handbags, leather wallets, and totes.

4. Custom Upholstery and Furniture

  • Upholsterers and Furniture Makers: In the maker’s market, artisans working in upholstery for custom furniture rely heavily on industrial sewing for its strength and ability to sew through layers of fabric or leather. Upholstery is a niche where industrial sewing is essential.
    • Example products: Chairs, sofas, cushions, and ottomans.

5. Outdoor Gear and Technical Products

  • Specialty Gear Makers: Companies and artisans that produce outdoor and technical gear, like tents, backpacks, and outdoor clothing, rely on industrial sewing due to the need for high-strength seams and weather-resistant materials.
    • Example products: Outdoor jackets, tents, backpacks, and climbing gear.

6. Quilting and Crafting

  • Independent Quilters: While many quilters in the maker’s market use domestic sewing machines, some who operate at a more professional level or produce quilts for sale may invest in industrial sewing machines, especially for larger, more complex projects.

7. Costume and Theatrical Design

  • Custom Costume Makers: Makers in theatrical costume design or cosplay often use industrial sewing to produce durable, detailed garments that can withstand frequent use. Industrial sewing helps ensure precision and professional-grade quality.
    • Example products: Theatrical costumes, cosplay outfits, historical clothing reproductions.

Overall Estimate of Industrial Sewing Usage in the Maker’s Market:

While there’s no exact percentage readily available, it’s reasonable to estimate that a substantial portion of the maker’s market — especially those producing textiles, apparel, bags, and upholstery — uses industrial sewing in their operations. As these makers scale up their production or work with heavier or more complex materials, industrial sewing becomes a necessity to maintain product quality and durability.

For smaller or hobbyist makers, however, domestic sewing machines may still suffice. In general, the larger-scale small businesses and those dealing with more rugged products tend to utilize industrial sewing machines more frequently.