American Industrial Sewing Today - SNAPSHOT
SNAPSHOT of U.S. Industrial Sewing
Today
Meet one
of our favorite homegrown denim makers
Billiam Jeans, established by Bill Mitchell in Greenville,
South Carolina, is a premium denim brand with a unique focus on customization.
It all started when Mitchell began altering clothes during his early 20s,
leading him to experiment with making jeans from scratch. Over the years, he
has refined his craft, creating high-quality, handcrafted jeans sourced
primarily from Cone Mills, a well-regarded American denim manufacturer. The
brand offers a blend of traditional craftsmanship with modern, sustainable materials,
including denim made from recycled products.
Of course, Bill is a long time Cutsew customer. He put
together a video to showcase our relationship. It’s cool to be a part of the
maker community and to play a small role in what Bill is doing. Billiam Jeans
is also known for its commitment to social causes, donating 20% of its profits
to organizations fighting human trafficking.
How much
industrial sewing happens in the United States?
Industrial sewing in the United States has seen a decline
over the years due to outsourcing and global competition, but it still plays a
significant role in certain sectors. While much of the mass garment production
has moved overseas to countries like China, Vietnam, and Bangladesh, there are
several key areas where industrial sewing remains relevant in the U.S.:
- Military
and Government Contracts: The U.S. government mandates that certain
products, like military uniforms and equipment, be manufactured
domestically under the Berry
Amendment. This has preserved a significant portion of industrial
sewing for defense-related purposes.
- Specialized
and High-End Manufacturing: The U.S. is still home to several
companies that focus on high-end or specialized textile products,
including:
- Aerospace
and automotive textiles
- Medical
textiles
- Safety
gear (like protective equipment)
- Luxury
apparel and boutique brands
- Domestic
Apparel Brands: While the bulk of clothing is imported, some smaller,
niche apparel companies still manufacture domestically, often with a focus
on quality and sustainable practices. Companies like American Giant
or Filson have made a point of keeping production within the U.S.
- U.S.
Textile Hubs: States such as North Carolina, South Carolina,
and parts of the Midwest still have industrial sewing operations, though
the scale has reduced compared to past decades.
Overall, while the volume of industrial sewing in the U.S.
is much smaller compared to major textile-producing nations, the sector
persists in niche markets and through government-related production mandates.
What
businesses within the U.S. textile hubs still have industrial sewing operations?
Several businesses within U.S. textile hubs, particularly in
states like North Carolina, South Carolina, and other regions, still maintain
industrial sewing operations. These companies often focus on specialized
products, government contracts, and niche markets. Here are some notable
businesses and sectors that continue to engage in industrial sewing operations:
1. Military and Government Contract Manufacturers
- Propper
International (Missouri): A major supplier of military uniforms and
gear, they manufacture much of their product in U.S. factories under
government contracts.
- American
Apparel, Inc. (Alabama): Specializes in military uniforms and
clothing, operating under the Berry Amendment, which requires certain
goods to be made in the U.S.
- Massif
(Oregon): Manufactures flame-resistant clothing for military and first
responders, producing their garments domestically.
2. Protective Gear and Safety Equipment
- National
Safety Apparel (Ohio): A leader in industrial safety and protective
apparel, this company produces a range of flame-resistant and
high-visibility clothing in U.S.-based factories.
- Lakeland
Industries (New York and Alabama): Specializes in protective clothing
for industrial and firefighting use, with domestic sewing operations for
some of their product lines.
3. Automotive and Aerospace Textile Manufacturers
- Lear
Corporation (Michigan): A major supplier of automotive seating and
interior components, including textiles, with some domestic operations in
cutting, sewing, and assembly.
- Boeing
(Washington): While Boeing is primarily known for aerospace manufacturing,
the company also relies on textile components for seats, upholstery, and
technical fabrics, some of which are produced through domestic industrial
sewing operations.
4. Luxury and High-End Apparel
- American
Giant (California/North Carolina): Known for producing high-quality
hoodies and casual wear domestically, American Giant has its manufacturing
facilities in North Carolina and other U.S. locations.
- Filson
(Washington): This heritage brand focuses on rugged outdoor clothing and
accessories, much of which is still sewn in the U.S. at its factories in
Washington state.
5. Medical and Technical Textiles
- Milliken
& Company (South Carolina): A leader in performance and protective
textiles, Milliken has diversified its textile operations to include
medical fabrics, flame-resistant materials, and industrial products. Much
of their technical sewing is done domestically.
- Glen
Raven, Inc. (North Carolina): Known for its outdoor performance
fabrics, including the well-known Sunbrella brand, Glen Raven maintains
U.S. production facilities for weaving, dyeing, and industrial sewing.
6. Smaller and Niche Domestic Apparel Brands
- Hardwick
Clothes (Tennessee): One of the last remaining suit manufacturers in
the U.S., Hardwick produces men's and women's suits, sports coats, and
other clothing in their Tennessee facility.
- Tommie
Copper (New York): A brand specializing in compression garments and
sports recovery wear, with some domestic sewing operations.
7. Textile Contractors and Industrial Sewing Services
- Contempora
Fabrics (North Carolina): A textile manufacturer specializing in
knitting, dyeing, and finishing fabrics, particularly for military
applications, with industrial sewing capabilities.
- Merrow
Manufacturing (Massachusetts): Specializes in advanced sewing
solutions for technical textiles, including products for military,
medical, and industrial applications.
These companies represent a small portion of the U.S.
industrial sewing industry, with operations typically focused on high-quality,
specialized products rather than large-scale, low-cost manufacturing. They play
critical roles in sectors such as defense, safety, and technical textiles,
where domestic production is often required or advantageous.
How much
of the makers' market uses industrial sewing to create products?
The maker’s market, which consists of small-scale artisans,
independent designers, and craftspeople, often relies on industrial sewing
to produce a variety of products. However, the extent of industrial sewing
usage within this market varies depending on the product category, production
volume, and the scale of the businesses involved. Here’s a breakdown of how
much of the maker’s market uses industrial sewing:
1. Apparel and Fashion
- Small
Clothing Brands: A significant portion of small clothing brands and
independent fashion designers use industrial sewing machines, particularly
when production volumes grow beyond a few items at a time. These machines
are faster, more durable, and produce higher-quality stitching compared to
domestic sewing machines.
- Example
products: Dresses, jackets, denim, and casual wear.
- Sustainability
and Made-in-USA Brands: Many makers focused on sustainable,
eco-friendly, or U.S.-made products use industrial sewing to create
durable, high-quality clothing that stands out from mass-produced goods.
2. Home Goods
- Textile
Home Products: Items like handmade pillows, curtains, bedding, and
other soft home furnishings often rely on industrial sewing due to the
need for precision and durability, especially when working with heavy
fabrics like canvas, denim, or upholstery material.
- Example
products: Pillows, cushion covers, curtains, and quilts.
3. Bags and Accessories
- Artisan
Bag Makers: The production of bags, wallets, and leather goods within
the maker’s market frequently utilizes industrial sewing machines. This is
especially true when working with materials like leather, heavy canvas, or
waxed cotton, which require stronger stitching that industrial machines
provide.
- Example
products: Backpacks, handbags, leather wallets, and totes.
4. Custom Upholstery and Furniture
- Upholsterers
and Furniture Makers: In the maker’s market, artisans working in
upholstery for custom furniture rely heavily on industrial sewing for its
strength and ability to sew through layers of fabric or leather.
Upholstery is a niche where industrial sewing is essential.
- Example
products: Chairs, sofas, cushions, and ottomans.
5. Outdoor Gear and Technical Products
- Specialty
Gear Makers: Companies and artisans that produce outdoor and technical
gear, like tents, backpacks, and outdoor clothing, rely on industrial
sewing due to the need for high-strength seams and weather-resistant
materials.
- Example
products: Outdoor jackets, tents, backpacks, and climbing gear.
6. Quilting and Crafting
- Independent
Quilters: While many quilters in the maker’s market use domestic
sewing machines, some who operate at a more professional level or produce
quilts for sale may invest in industrial sewing machines, especially for
larger, more complex projects.
7. Costume and Theatrical Design
- Custom
Costume Makers: Makers in theatrical costume design or cosplay often
use industrial sewing to produce durable, detailed garments that can
withstand frequent use. Industrial sewing helps ensure precision and
professional-grade quality.
- Example
products: Theatrical costumes, cosplay outfits, historical clothing
reproductions.
Overall Estimate of Industrial Sewing Usage in the
Maker’s Market:
While there’s no exact percentage readily available, it’s
reasonable to estimate that a substantial portion of the maker’s market
— especially those producing textiles, apparel, bags, and upholstery — uses
industrial sewing in their operations. As these makers scale up their
production or work with heavier or more complex materials, industrial sewing
becomes a necessity to maintain product quality and durability.
For smaller or hobbyist makers, however, domestic sewing
machines may still suffice. In general, the larger-scale small businesses
and those dealing with more rugged products tend to utilize industrial sewing
machines more frequently.